The Ramadan cookie. Flower-shaped, fried, dipped in hot honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds. The dough has orange blossom water, anise, cinnamon, saffron — it smells like a perfume shop.

Making them at home is an all-day project. Most people buy them. The best ones come from the stalls that only appear during Ramadan — they set up, sell for a month, and disappear.

They go with harira. The sweetness against the savoury soup is the whole point.