Derb 37

The first harira

moroccan

The pot has been going since noon. Lentils, chickpeas, tomatoes, celery leaves — the leaves, not the stalks. Cumin, turmeric, ginger, cinnamon at the very end. The steam fills the courtyard by four.

The bread is at the communal oven. The table is set: harira, dates, chebakia, eggs. Same every night for a month.

The flour-water goes in at the end — that's what makes the texture right. Thick enough to coat a spoon, still pourable.

Harira

200g brown lentils, rinsed150g chickpeas, soaked overnight1 large onion, finely chopped4 tomatoes, peeled and crusheda handful celery leavesa big bunch fresh coriandera big bunch fresh parsley1 tsp cumin1 tsp turmeric½ tsp ground ginger¼ tsp cinnamona pinch saffron threads2 tbsp flour mixed with waterolive oilsalt and pepper

Olive oil, onion until soft. Tomatoes, celery leaves, herbs, spices — two minutes. Lentils and chickpeas in, water to cover. Simmer 45 minutes. Flour-water stirred in slowly at the end. Lemon at the table.