The sardines at the souk this morning — small, silver, eyes still clear. A kilo for almost nothing.

Chermoula: coriander, garlic, cumin, paprika, lemon juice, olive oil, pounded together. The sardines sit in it for an hour. Then the charcoal grill — a clay kanoun on the terrace. Three minutes a side. The skin blisters, the fat drips, the smoke carries.

Eaten with bread and more lemon.