Pyramids of turmeric, cumin, paprika, ras el hanout in shades of gold and red and brown. The smell is a wall.

The cumin test: rub it between the fingers. Strong and immediate means fresh. Faint means old. The saffron — real saffron has bright red threads with no yellow.

Ras el hanout means head of the shop. The best blend the merchant makes. Every shop's recipe is different.