The pot has been on since noon. The whole house smells of cumin and tomato and that cinnamon-at-the-end thing that only happens in Ramadan. Zahra makes hers thicker than mine. I keep adjusting toward her version, year on year. It is almost there.
The first harira
Harira
serves six
For the pot
200g brown lentils, rinsed150g chickpeas, soaked overnight1 large onion, fine-chopped4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and crushedA handful of celery leaves (not stalks)A big bunch each of coriander and parsley1 tsp cumin, 1 tsp turmeric, 1/2 tsp ground ginger1/4 tsp cinnamon, right at the endA pinch of saffronOlive oil, salt, pepperTo finish
2 tbsp flour mixed with a little cold waterLemon, dates, bread, at the tableSweat the onion in olive oil. Tomatoes, celery leaves, herbs, spices in — a couple of minutes until the kitchen smells ridiculous.
Lentils and chickpeas, water to cover (about two litres). Bring up, drop to a simmer, walk away for forty-five minutes.
Cinnamon now. Stream the flour-water in slowly, stirring, until it just coats a spoon. Lemon at the table.